As July of 2025 came to a close, a seemingly interminable heat wave had settled over much of North Carolina. This was on the heels of tropical storm Chantal flooding parts of Chapel Hill. leaving the first floor of my daughter Katy’s condo uninhabitable. One extreme weather event after another drove us to seek respite in the foothills of our state. We needed a break!

The first stop of our journey was at the Old Wilkes Jail in Wilkesboro. The spot was of interest to me because it’s where Tom Dula was held for the murder of his lover Laura Foster in 1866. The folk song, Tom Dooley, has helped keep the story of this tragedy alive. Over 150 years later, many believe that Tom died to protect the actual murderer, Laura’s cousin, Anne Foster Melton, but all that speculation doesn’t change the outcome.

(A Wikipedia story about the song Tom Dooley explains that his name was written Tom Dooley in the famous song because “the pronunciation of a final ‘a’ like ‘y’ (or ‘ee’) is an old feature in Appalachian speech, as in the term Grand Ole Opry” Reading this took me back to my befuddlement when I was first introduced to my husband’s Appalachian family, and found that Aunt Lindy and Uncle Ezry’s names were spelled Linda and Ezra.)

From Wilkes County, we drove to Banner Elk and were saddened to see evidence of the destruction wrought by Hurricane Helene ten months after it hit the North Carolina mountains. We did find dark humor in acknowledging that at times it was hard to distinguish storm destruction from man-made junk collections. Still, knowing how stressful Katy’s recent flooding experience had been, we could hardly imagine the trauma Helene had brought to this area. It was heartening to see rebuilding and repair all around us.

In Banner Elk, we took a spin on the Wilderness Run Alpine Coaster where, even though riders exercise control over the speed of their cars, I found out the hard way that the proprietors prefer you not keep the brakes on for the entire trip. It was a fun if un-exhilarating ride for me! From Banner Elk we drove down an exceptionally twisty mountain road to Boone and then on to Ashe County, making a tasty stop in West Jefferson at Ashe County Cheese, before arriving at our day’s final destination, the River House Inn.

The River House Inn is a true gem that Katy had uncovered online. Nestled on the New River in a remote area of northwestern NC, the inn is the epitome of charm. The property was purchased and renovated by Gayle Winston, an Ashe County native who lived a storied life in New York City before returning home to the Blue Ridge Mountains. I was thrilled to read that Gayle was a fellow recipient of the Order of the Long Leaf Pine, while also feeling humbled by her many accomplishments. Sitting in front porch rockers looking out over the river framed by wooded hills was a welcome respite, allowing us to appreciate that nature’s power brings us both joy and grief.

July 31, 2025 – Counties #64, 65, 66 – Wilkes, Avery, Ashe